Havana’s Sports City Complex in Sharp Decline
It’s been a long time since a flying saucer landed there.
The dilapidated complex has become a metaphor for the state of sports on the island.
HAVANA TIMES – Resembling a flying saucer or a hamburger bun, Havana’s Ciudad Deportiva stands not only as one of the city’s premier architectural treasures but also as the backdrop for thrilling events like championship finals and Cuba’s sole Rolling Stones concert.
Nestled at the crossroads of several capital neighborhoods, this grand complex, inaugurated in 1958, symbolizes the current state of sports on the island. The training grounds, race track, indoor courts, and especially the swimming pools, are all in dire need of extensive renovation to regain their former glory and pivotal role in nurturing young athletes
Stagnant water has turned a shade of green within the pools—one Olympic-sized and the other for diving. The cracked and peeling interior walls vie with the damaged stands where once the crowd buzzed, shouting or applauding as their favorite athletes swam. Now, a leak has flooded part of the seating area, from which a nauseating smell emanates.
Adjacent to the pool area, five basketball courts stretch out, though only three of the ten hoops remain. One of the courts is also plagued by wastewater, giving it an appearance somewhere between a swamp and a landfill where all sorts of trash pile up.
One of the remaining basketball nets collapsed a few days ago, and a coach with his students took it upon themselves to set it back up, knowing that the Ciudad Deportiva staff wouldn’t handle the repair. The officials from the National Institute of Sports, Physical Education, and Recreation (Inder), located within the complex, seem indifferent to the decay spreading around them.”
At the entrance of the Inder headquarters in Havana, coaches and their students often wait to ’catch’ the president of the official entity, Osvaldo Vento. Only after persistent insistence and complaints about the area’s deterioration does the official agree to send some workers to assess a fallen hoop, a race track overgrown with weeds, or the sewage water accumulating in parts of the grounds. Most of the time, only a ’temporary patch’ is done, laments a basketball coach.
Residents avoid the area at night due to the multiple gaps in the fence and the lack of surveillance, making it a dangerous place. During the day, some residents from the nearby neighborhoods of Cerro or Nuevo Vedado come to run, do calisthenics, or simply cut through the complex to shorten their route. The crossing must be done with caution, as the holes and tall grass can hold unexpected surprises.
Its current state surprises no one. Since its opening, the Ciudad Deportiva has undergone only two major renovations. The first was in preparation for the 1991 Pan American Games in the Cuban capital, and the second as part of the celebrations for the 500th anniversary of the Villa de San Cristóbal de la Habana. Five years after that milestone, the cracks of a renovation that was more superficial painting than deep intervention have emerged.
In memory, however, some stories of its past remain. Like that day on December 28, 1954, Cuba’s equivalent of April Fool’s Day, when Cuban humorous wit flourished on the grounds where the Ciudad Deportiva was being built. Probably influenced by the overwhelming impact of H.G. Wells’ War of the Worlds, a rumor—strengthened by news spread by the national press—spread about the landing of a flying saucer in the vicinity.
Thousands of curious onlookers gathered at the site, with talks of even mobilizing the Army. Eventually, several famous Cuban actors and singers, including the popular Rosita Fornés, emerged from the artifact dressed as Martians. The ’close encounter’ with the Habaneros was accompanied by a musical piece asserting, ’The Martians have arrived / And they arrived dancing cha-cha-cha,’ composed by Rosendo Ruiz.
Seventy years have passed since that memorable day, and the promises to transform the area into a modern zone with cutting-edge infrastructure have not been fulfilled. Neither the enthusiastic crowds nor the thousands of voices that once filled the grounds of the Ciudad Deportiva remain.
Translated by Gustavo Loredo for Translating Cuba.