Low-End “Popular” Vacation Facilities for Cubans
HAVANA TIMES – I was conducting a survey for the Cuban Observatory of Human Rights in the municipality of Freyre, Holguín. That’s where I took a bus and found myself at a place that seemed like a “camping” facility (a little like a hostel) one I hadn’t known of before. It is located in front of Blanca Beach. I joined a group that was entering the establishment. The loud reggaeton music playing, with its aggressive and sexist lyrics, made it difficult to understand how to discourage its consumption in public places, especially where children are present.
On the left side, there’s a small bar, on the right, the pool, further along, the restaurant, and a little further, the basic lodging. We were in a hall with tables and chairs and a space where I assume people could dance. On one occasion, I was told that the government had these establishments built for Cubans, so they wouldn’t disturb the beaches of hotels exclusive to international tourism. Our presence there was completely forbidden about twenty years ago. I’m not sure about this claim, but when you think about how the Cuban government operates, it gives you something to ponder.
The host welcomed the group and apologized for any inconvenience caused by power outages. They knew the service was expensive for those three days of fun in that place, but it wasn’t in their hands to fix it. So, they asked for understanding. After the talk about some of the establishment’s rules, like being careful with children in the pool, the group dispersed to find their resting place.
I approached the waitress and expressed my desire to have lunch, even though I wasn’t exactly one of the campers. She told me to sit in the restaurant and tell the staff there. I did just that. Lunch was mashed plantains, congri, and very little meat on some bones. Not very tasty, I must say. I paid 700 pesos and left. People seemed very happy with their kids doing somersaults in the pool. I even felt joy watching them.
Two years ago, I was at one of these facilities in Las Tunas, thanks to some neighbors who were kind enough to invite me. It was on top of a hill. It only had a very small pool for children. There was no beach, just a bar with mainly beer and a food service offer consisting mostly of rice and chicken. The good thing was that the power outages weren’t as severe. There were no entry talks. A man just showed us to our dormitory. I returned the next day, thanking them beforehand and apologizing for not staying another day.
Of course, some of these low-end establishments are better than others. There are those with beaches, which are the best. Then there are those with rivers and those that only have a small pool and a rural landscape. It’s a service that many opt for. But with power outages, they can become very hostile places. These are areas with many biting nats and mosquitoes that can become unbearable.
The food is a nightmare for almost everyone. It’s really bad. But generally, people eat snacks to compensate and, of course, drink a lot of beer. I remember one in Pinar del Rio where, besides the food that was rarely tasty, there was no water, and you had to carry it in buckets from huge tanks in the yard. But we had gone as a group of friends to accompany others from Uruguay who were organizing for their elections, in which they eventually won. It was a nice memory after all.
Those delicious meals, that never-ending water and electricity, that impressive comfort are found in hotels. However, it’s said that since there’s little international tourism and they opened them to residents of the Island, it’s not as good anymore. And they say the government is losing out after allowing Cubans to enter. Because no matter how much they charge, people end up drinking all the beer and eating all the food available. They say the people from Santiago are relentless, and the ones from Holguín aren’t far behind. Unlike tourists from other countries who don’t eat or drink as much and often do so outside the establishment to explore the surroundings.
In any case, I won’t be going to any of these places this vacation. In the case of hotels, because they are inaccessible to me. Frankly, they’re not for the majority of the population. We’re talking, for example, about 20,000 pesos for two people, for two days. And in the case of the low-end peoples’ facilities, where you don’t pay as much but don’t think it’s too little either, no one guarantees the conditions, and now with the power outages, the nights must be unbearable.
And we already know that for the government, what’s important are the statistics, their plan always fulfilled. But the reality, what will actually be experienced, that doesn’t matter at all.
That day, I finished my surveys. I treated myself to a swim on the beach, which is always pleasant and healthy. I left knowing that there was also a place for recreation there. And that, despite everything, people want to have fun, and they even manage to do so. And, after all, that’s encouraging.
Thanks for the very good article. Cubans are in a difficult position but really they made the political choices and now they have to live with them. It’s terrible when you’re worst enemies or you’re in your leaders. Take care