A Week Can Go By Without a Single Tourist Showing Up”
“At the Melia San Carlos Hotel in Cienfuegos
In January, during the Cuban tourism high season, the establishment had an occupancy rate of less than 15%.
By Julio Cesar Contreras (14ymedio)
HAVANA TIMES – In the midst of the darkness that fell on Cienfuegos this Sunday, where the blackout lasted more than 20 hours, a bright building stood out at dusk. “I have only managed to collect 250 pesos all day from some Cubans who came into the bar to have a few beers,” says Gabriel, an employee of the Meliá San Carlos hotel. “There are people who come to take refuge here, to have a drink and to be able to at least see their hands,” he explains. Quite a triumph if one takes into account that the fall in tourism has emptied its facilities more than ever.
“There is very little service to external clients. The biggest tips here are always given by the guests, but right now there are very few of them,” the employee adds. During the month of January, the high tourist season in Cuba, the hotel has had an occupancy rate of less than 15%, according to an employee of the administrative area who prefers to remain anonymous. With rooms ranging from 115 to 160 dollars per night, if booked on the company’s official website, the establishment spends its days with a “small number of clients who also come for one or two nights, if that.”
The hotel, originally called just “San Carlos” opened in 1925, was owned by businessman Antonio Mata until, after the triumph of the Revolution, it passed into the hands of the State until its closure in the 1990s. After several years of renovation, the establishment reopened in 2018 with the name of its management company, “Meliá”, inserted. “It’s nice and comfortable, but in the city of Cienfuegos there is not much to do, so few tourists come here, and the ones who do, is because they are making a short stop between the West and the East”, says the employee.
“These days, there is not much difference between working here or in a tourist center in the Islazul chain”, he added, referring to one of the worst-rated state-owned companies dedicated to tourism.
The hotel “is struggling with the number of guests,” he continues. “We have kept almost all the staff, but people are not very enthusiastic about coming to work because what really motivates us here is tips, not wages, and without guests there are no tips in foreign currency.”
At the door of the San Carlos, a security guard looks out into the darkness that stretches beyond the lights on the façade. It is nighttime, he has already completed his shift and has taken off his work uniform to await his replacement, but the employee who is to guard the entrance to the accommodation for the next few hours is late.
The lack of tourists does not help to maintain work discipline, something that is reflected in the details. Several ashtrays with numerous cigarette butts show that no one has been to clean them for hours, or perhaps days, and two employees sitting on a sofa check their mobile phones while waiting for their shift to end.
“We’re like in the Coronavirus era, but without face masks,” says another bar worker. “I’ve counted up to a week without seeing even a single tourist. The staff reduction could come at any time,” explains the man, who is about 50 years old and has worked in the tourism sector for two decades. “I got a second job in a private restaurant and, if this keeps getting worse, I’m going full-time for that business.”
“It’s also difficult to answer questions from customers who want to go out and experience the city’s nightlife. You have to explain to them that there’s a general blackout, and that it’s better not to go out.” Among the latest guests she has served at the bar, she has often heard the phrase that they don’t plan to return to Cuba. “‘The country looks destroyed, I’m going to wait a while to return,’ said a German woman who told me she had come several times since the 1990s.”
According to Meliá’s third-quarter data, its hotels in Cuba had an average occupancy of 39%, well below its facilities in Asia, which is in second to last position, with 52%. The San Carlos is also one of the properties that led the Spanish hotel chain to litigation after the activation of Title III of the Helms-Burton Act. In 2019, Antonio Mata’s heirs sued the company for profiting from the property, as well as several hotel and tourism search platforms, including Expedia, Hotels.com, Orbitz, Travelocity.com, Trivago and Booking.com. The Florida judge who handled the case, however, removed Meliá and all intermediaries from the case.
Despite the lack of work, employees do have one motivation to come to San Carlos: “electricity, water and food.” Every day they charge their phones at the hotel, knowing that when they return home there will most likely be no electricity. However, the difficulties that extend from the front door outwards also creep into the accommodation managed by Meliá. “Right now, we have the internet connection down because it seems there are problems with the server,” one of the receptionists tells a guest.
And not all that glitters is gold. Part of the hotel has its lights off in the interior areas. “We have an energy saving plan that we must strictly follow. All the rooms that are not in use are turned off or out of service, including the elevators,” explains the employee. “The management has asked us to remain calm and trust that we will get out of this situation”, stresses the woman, as if repeating a mantra that dissuades her and the other workers from being pessimistic.
Translated by Norma Whiting for Translating Cuba.
When Habanos the Cuban cigar monopoly was recently taken over by Asian investors to the tune of 50% the first thing done was to raise cigar prices in some cases by 250% Now Cuba has always had a vibrant cigar tourism sector that was literally shuttered overnight by these prices. The greedy new owners raised the prices even in Cuba which was always the cheapest prices on the planet. Very sadly thousands of aficionados cancelled all future plans to return to Cuba. Very silly mistake that only hurts Cuban tourism even more.
First thing stop pegging your currency to the American dollar. As a Canadian If I wanted to loose 30 to 40% on the hard earned wages to go on holidays I would go to Florida. With the poor facilities, transportation difficulties why charge American Prices. Only hope is BRICS China Russia and Brazil hopefully Venezuela tourists. The charm of the revolution is wearing thin, when it seems the Cuban people and leadership want be embraced by a dying American empire. Move forward and be Cuban.
Stephen: ““It is time for change.” as you conclude. You are absolutely correct. Hopefully, for the betterment of this current fragile world order that “change” occurs with cooler heads at the helm who prevail.”
Hear! Hear! Another great comment in its entirety.
As a Canadian I was not insulted by Trump’s 51st State comment – many were though. I know that he makes grandiose statement hoping to get concessions that have nothing to do with his statement. In this case it was about a fortification of our border.
Also, as a Canadian, I would prefer, that if anything, other than complete sovereignty and autonomy that is, Cuba become Canada’s 11th province or 4th territory and first offshore one at that. Canadians are the single largest community of tourists to Cuba – we seem to really like it – so why not bring it into our fold as a family member? A fanciful thought I admit, but it’s the best alternative in my opinion.
Cheers,
James: I totally agree with you that “change” as it applies to the present world order is the operative word. Who would have thought say, six months ago, the newly elected President of the United States – Donald Trump would publicly announce that he, and no doubt his silent administration, want to make Canada the 51st American State? Imagine that.
His disparaging characterization of Canada a trusted ally, a friend, an economic partner for over a century leaves any sane person trying to project future world alliances and events – perpetually puzzled. Trusted allies and democratic friends are now pariahs to be publicly admonished. On the other hand, any world dictator whether in a totalitarian state like North Korea, or in authoritarian Russia, the dictator is publicly praised for their total brash command of their countries. Bizarre.
The world order as we have known it is definitely changing. For the better or worse only time will tell. With Trump in the influential White House in total control of all the levers of government power puts him, if he so chooses, into that praised delusional dictatorial sphere. That is scary.
With regard to Cuba it too will undergo change with time. Yes, of course, no one denies the tremendous economic potential the island has. Unfortunately, its history is one of exploitation by colonial powers: Spanish, Americans, Russians. Its economic, social, cultural potential has historically been siphoned away by political exploitation from American imperialism to Soviet communism.
As the world witnesses on a daily basis the slow creeping economic collapse of the existing totalitarian regime, it is only a matter of time (sounds cliche) that the coveted “change” will occur in Cuba.
With Trump in power and with his potential delusional dictatorial dictums plus his newly discovered Manifest Destiny ambitions (Cuba, after all, is in Trump’s Western Hemisphere – like Canada), he may just decide to make Cuba his 52nd American State grab. If his friend Putin makes territorial grabs look so easy in his neck of the woods and gets away with it, why not delusional Donald Trump country grab in the Western Hemisphere?
“It is time for change.” as you conclude. You are absolutely correct. Hopefully, for the betterment of this current fragile world order that “change” occurs with cooler heads at the helm who prevail.
Stephen, I appreciate your intelligent replies, and thank Havana Times for publishing them: There’s so much uncertainty in this world, but also so much change. Who would have ever thought that Argentina would elect a far right, chainsaw yielding, crazy haired, Libertarian as their new president? also, who would have ever thought that almost all of West Africa would rise up and depose of French hegemony en-masse? Or closer to home, that Mexico would have ever elected a Mexican/Jewish woman as their president? My point is to never say never. It is time for change.
Both China and Russia are geographically distant nations – they have no real business/right even being around here. Their presence is only to maintain ideological supremacy over this Caribbean nation. Judging by the conditions in Cuba, both Russia and China have abandoned it. Venezuela may be closer than their comrades but they have no real power – except to restrict oil exports to Cuba, which we know has already happened. So why remain comrades with those that with hold/restrict a negotiated energy source? It is time for change.
As I said previously, Cuba’s fortunes would change instantly if it were to renounce communism and embrace a capitalist free market society. Money would come flooding in and so too would jobs, food, medicines, energy, and opportunities for all Cubanos – even those currently in power. It is time for change.
James: Yes, the article you referenced “Card-Carrying Party Members Are Also Abandoning Ship.” dated January 30, 2025. was read before my writing my response to your commentary.
With that in my mind as I wrote, I concluded my submission to you by offered an optimistic scenario which reinforced the said article: “. . . or the present guard seeing a hopeless economic case becoming totally unsustainable abandon ship, maybe then the Jewel of the Caribbean can one day be realized once again.”
I doubt very much whether the current Cuban ideological political leaders will abandon ship en mass, though that would be a good thing. Russia and China would not allow it. They would step in politically and Venezuela to lesser extent to prevent a total abandonment of ideological, and more importantly, geographical spheres of influence.
The metaphorical elephant in the room in this whole discussion is Donald Trump and his Secretary of State- Marco Rubio – the “disrupters”. How are they going to handle the Cuban totalitarian authoritarian rulers in the next four years? Your guess is as good as mine. Who knows?
Stephen (Feb 8th comment) we agree. I know everything that you mentioned politically and ideologically. My point centred around your last paragraph. If you look further here, you will see an article stating that even card carrying members are leaving – read it. So, that’s my point – the ingredients for change are there, and so is the necessity – something has got to give, and give soon. The political leaders have to wake up and look at reality – the regimes that support(ed) them, namely Russia, Venezuela, and Iran, are all endowed with an abundance of natural resources like oil – Cuba has nothing. The others can stay fixed in their ideological bent if they wish but Cuba needs to change, to become part of the global democratic, and capitalist, community. Adopt that ideology, announce that change, and watch the fortunes of the nation, and its people, change overnight.
Just returned from a week at Cayo Santa Maria, Valentin Perla Blanca, to be specific. This was our 4th trip to Cuba, our first to CSM, the other 3 were to Holguin including 1 trip pre-covid. Honestly, this last trip has been the best one yet. Food and drink options were great, all staff were happy and enthusiastic, the hotel and property was meticulously clean and cared for, even the side of the resort that’s “closed” since covid due to low occupancy. (It was sad to see though as it gives a glimpse of the potential future of all this grandiose infrastructure if things don’t improve.) While we were there we heard about other resorts on CSM that were essentially empty, having only 5-10 guests. I’ve followed Perla Blanca’s FB group for a few years so I knew we were making a fairly safe choice, many of the guests return year after year. We also hired a taxi to take us into Santa Clara for the day, and for lunch at the north beach restaurant in Caibarien. At no time did we feel unsafe or unwelcome. I really do wish the situation for the Cuban people improves, but I don’t see that happening any time soon.
Was in cuba in May 2024 at Flaminco Cayo Coco . I have been going to Cuba last 10 years twice a year. The friendly people attitude is changing. The guest service manager was very rude. I was told if I don’t like it here to leave. My Sunwing rep was informed and he spoke to the general manager and issue was resolved. Food was the same every day. It will be a few years before I return. Went to the Dominican in December 2024 much better trip. Food was great, friendly and clean rooms. Went to 2 baseball games. Looking to go back again in December. Sorry Cuba you blew it, good bye.
I was really considering going to Cayo Coco in April and would like to know if it is safe do they have water , cola , power , good food
I am regular visitor to Cuba just many people that I know .
My recent trip to Blau Arenal, Havana was a bit of disappointment.
I am also big promoter of Cuba and every year I encourage a number of people to come and enjoy your beautiful country.
This year I made a mistake and I apologized and paid $ for it but I was very disappointed with heavy handed handling of that mistake by the management.
Left bitter taste in my mouth and my friends. I will continue to come to Cuba but I will be less enthusiastic to promote it to other people. The whole incident was miss handled by management and I advised them to apologize but they don’t fully understand customer service.
Incidence like that do reduce number of people coming to Cuba.
We are on the north side in an Iberostar hotel. We were here 5 years ago when everything was perfect. Now, the hotel is 20% occupied, pork is the daily staple & almost all advertised amenities are gone. Lots of booze though. The staff who were here 5 years ago & still here put on a brave face with no negativity. These people love their country but their country does not love them. We won’t be back and my heart breaks for them.
Is an island full of Amazing people, but the government is a dictatorship regime that will prosecute anyone who is against the government believes.
I had visit cuba in January, I was very disappointed in how canadian are treated, they do not value our canadian currency. They charge canadian in American dollars,canadian have been loyal trouist however we are being taken advantage of by paying in usa currency. I brought 2 coffee in cuba i paid 8 dollars usa. Next time I am going to go to Mexico where my currency is accepted and I am not over charge.
First time after pandemic in 2022, never again. Food was never great but now….couldn’t even find a decent meal. Not even if the trip was free, everything changed even the people.
Went to Cuba 5 times, last trip ruined it for me. Would not go back, even if the trip was free.
Just came back from the island .stayed at the melia cayo Coco. Been going there for ten years probably the best holiday I have had in cuba. Food was basic as normal but plenty of it had a great time with the Cubans . The hotel was only 25 percent full
Been to Cuba 8 times. The last trip in 2023 ruined Cuba for us. Probably never go again.
We stayed at Astra casa vert everything was awsome esp the staff . everything was very clean lots of food and drinks and no power outages
“But do the political leaders not see, or know, that that potential is right there, waiting to be realized. The ingredients are there – just blend them together to create a glorious Cuba.”
James: The Cuban political leaders are engrossed and enamoured in a political ideology – Marxist-Leninist – philosophy borrowed and instilled into the Cuban psyche beginning in 1959. That was the year that was supposed to begin to “. . . create a glorious Cuba.” Unfortunately, for the majority of non political Cubans, they must endure the economic calamity perpetrated on them for the last 65 plus years.
This draconian outdated philosophy of a few rulers in power and the majority of Cubans – the ruled – is the essence of an authoritarian, totalitarian state. In such a political arena those in power rule with an iron fist. That is their modus operandi if they want to continue in their, for them, perpetual rule.
The present totalitarian Cuban rulers operate on an island, an island supported economically by those countries with a similar ideological outlook as the totalitarian rulers: Russia, China, Venezuela. Countries ruled by authoritarian, autocratic leaders and in one case a proven illegitimate government.
These autocratic states are not interested in “. . . waiting to be realized . . .” potential for the majority of Cubans if what you mean by realized potential is economic fulfillment for the majority of Cubans. These Cuban countries who are supposed to be “friends” are only interested in political strategic alliances with the Cuban totalitarian rulers. Russia is a perfect example. It militarily exploited Cuba and when it saw fit abandoned the Cuban population.
The rest of the world may sympathize with Cuba’s current economic misery; however, aside from perhaps Spain and Mexico most democratic countries will not support hard core Marxist-Leninist political philosophy. Plus, any country that does overt business with Cuban totalitarian leaders will suffer the wrath of the Helms- Burton Act. And with Trump in power more economic wrath is coming to the Cuban totalitarian leaders like it or not.
Just blend all that truth together and hence, James, unfortunately for the majority of Cubans, the “ingredients” are just not there to create that envisioned glorious Cuba any time soon.
Not to leave on a negative note, what could bring some economic relief, of course, is a radical change in political philosophy in the upper echelons of the Cuban government. Perhaps when the old guard passes away or the present guard seeing a hopeless economic case becoming totally unsustainable abandon ship, maybe then the Jewel of the Caribbean can one day be realized once again.
I have friends that work in the tourism sector in Cuba. Luckily they work at the large foreign operated resort destinations. They are not negative, nor unpleasant, about their work locations. There they have uninterrupted electricity, good drinks, relatively good food, and above all they earn additional income from tips. But when they leave the resort their lives change considerably. Often times they go without electricity for stretches of tens of hours – sometimes receiving only an hour of electricity per day, and on the odd occasion no power for a full day. Food, medicine, toiletries – the basic necessities of life – are hard to find. But they struggle-on, day after day, deep in the adage, “it is what it is.” As one of the other commentors mentioned – Cuba could (and I say should) be the ‘Jewel of the Caribbean’. But do the political leaders not see, or know, that that potential is right there, waiting to be realized. The ingredients are there – just blend them together to create a glorious Cuba.
Yes, unfortunately this is what happens. I have also been a visitor of Cuba over the past decade, sometimes 4x a year, always enthusiastic to go to the island. Travelled east to west and north to south. I loved it there, felt it to be 2nd nature. But I’ve lost my enthusiasm, like other visitors. It has become way too difficult, it’s not a pleasure anymore. I know, boo hoo for the foreigners.
And safety has diminished. More hotel lights will be off in the future.
Good luck Cuba.
I do believe Cuba has past the point of no return, unfortunate , could be the jewel of the Caribbean, as it once was.
While it is certainly understandable, what stood out for me during my last visit to Cuba last year was the sour and melancholy attitude of hotel and restaurant employees serving the public. Speaking in generalities of course, it seemed to be the exception rather than the rule to encounter a Cuban working in tourism who had anything positive to say about the then current situation. Since then, conditions have worsened in Cuba so I can only imagine how many more “Debbie downers” there must be in tourism sector. Again, it is certainly understandable but changing negative attitudes is yet another major obstacle to progress in Cuba.
Look at the numbers of people that are getting robbed and attacked and the police do nothing to stop . Look at the poor quality of food available and the lack of fuel or items like medicine or mosquito repellent
Look at number of people who try not give correct change and higher prices than mexico or parts of the United States the lack of freedom for tourists the threatening of deportation of people who get robbed who a police report.In my opinion fix these items and ability to get foreign currency at a bank or hotel sell bus tickets in pesos for the tourist bus and maybe tourists will come .