Justifying Survival Here in Cuba

By Esther Zoza

HAVANA TIMES – Deception and trickery are becoming more frequent in the behavior of transportation inspectors in Havana. Meeting the monthly quota for fines, without regard for the methods used, exposes a lack of values.

This week, while I was traveling in a collective taxi, one of the passengers, upon learning of the cost of his trip, called over some transportation inspectors who seemed to be waiting on a nearby corner. That passenger was, in fact, an inspector. After the initial shock, one wonders how such planning and deceit can exist among these supposed public servants to impose a fine. It’s not surprising that an impenetrable barrier has risen between them and the citizenry.

The collective disdain toward public officials has created a code of support among ordinary people. This code is evident in the support offered to drivers, despite the high cost of getting from one place to another. The people understand the cost of fuel, spare parts, and tires. They are also aware of the long lines under the sun and dew at gas stations. It’s not surprising that they silently appreciate this service that the State cannot provide. But when silence becomes too heavy a burden, as it did on this occasion, it erupts.

Witnessing an outburst of emotions in a confined space is unhealthy. Nor is it healthy to remain indifferent to injustice. After imposing an 8,000 peso fine on the driver for not charging the established rate for each leg of the trip, tensions rose, and everyone expressed their opinions. A predictable reaction to shared anguish, unease generated by poverty, economic stagnation, and shamelessness.

When I got out of the taxi, I couldn’t stop thinking about my people. About their reactions to the most absurd situations. About how some people rise above poverty, while others become dehumanized, justifying survival.

Read more from the diary of Esther Zoza here.