Caridad

Caracas, Venezuela

I’ve already commented on the possibility of being assaulted in Caracas; this is like in many other cities, and not something unique to this capital.  During my first nights here, the sounds of gunshots ricocheted against each wall of my room, as if this were the best way to welcome me.

For two weeks now, I haven’t heard any more of this threat, though I know that in other areas of the city that violent music never ceases to play.  This was something I was advised of before arriving, after getting here, and day after day: Be careful.

Although I’ve haven’t felt frightened here —so far—  people who I know have in fact been assaulted, fortunately with no other losses than a few clothes and some money.

Security

Regardless of everything, there’s something that doesn’t cease to be contradictory: I find that despite the violence in the streets, I don’t sense violence from the people of this city.

From the moment I leave my apartment in the morning, I hear “good morning” wherever I go – in the elevator, in the hotel lobby (which, by the way, is not for tourists), or in any business center.

If I get on the metro, I never see a senior citizen standing, and that’s not by chance.  The elderly are given special treatment, and at least in the metro they don’t have to pay.  Inside the subway cars there are no signs above the seats indicating spaces that are reserved for pregnant women, people who are disabled or seniors: any person will offer them their seat without thinking twice.

Caracas, Venezuela

In the streets —though there are too many cars, and they’re not so respectful of the traffic laws— drivers usually cede the right of way to pedestrians or to each other, despite the long traffic jams that would drive any Cuban motorist mad.

Lately in Havana, a certain level of violent tension can be sensed on the streets or in stores, buses or anywhere people gather.  Sometimes this is contained, other times not.  Two people simply bumping into each other would occasionally turn into at least a pair of ugly frowns.

Here you can note the difference; if in the hustle and bustle you run into someone, they’ll readily accept your apology – if not with a smile, at least with courtesy.

I’m surprised how in one city there can coexist high levels of violence with such civility.  It’s also like this in the low-income hillside areas that surround the city center.  Up to now I’ve not seen anybody bothering anyone else with their cigarette smoke.  Notwithstanding, I know a young guy who has slept under his bed several times to escape gang-related crossfire.

Central and greater Caracas continue to be an enigma, a complex labyrinth to get to know, without it mattering much where the exact point is where you can escape the maze.

Click on the tumbnails below to view all the photos in this gallery


Caridad

Caridad: If I had the chance to choose what my next life would be like, I’d like to be water. If I had the chance to eliminate a worst aspect of the world I would erase fear. Of all the human feelings I most like I prefer friendship. I was born in the year of the first Congress of the Cuban Communist Party, the day that Gay Pride is celebrated around the world. I no longer live on the east side of Havana; I’m trying to make a go of it in Caracas, and I continue to defend my right to do what I want and not what society expects of me.

One thought on “Violence vs. Civility

  • A semi-socialist regime like the bolivarian venezuelan 1 can, under good leadership (Chávez’ anyway) & with sufficient resources, overcome decades of capitalist dismanagement of vital basic infrastructure in electricity production & distribution — even in the face of ongoing imperialist & 5th-column sabotage.

    The situation with crime in the streets OTOH, involves the basic relations of the entire society in all its pernicious non-linearity & relentless inertia; & so while a lot of noise & propaganda can B made about this dimension of human society, most efforts in this area still fall flat on their face. Not least AFAIC because the bolivarian government is still following top-down models of state police control of the streets, rather than devolving the appropriate amount of power & resources 2 those closest 2 those “mean streets”: the consejos comunales. & I would think the similar problem still exists in Cuba, with its de facto stalinist model of social organization.

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