Havana’s Hotel Habana Libre
Photo Feature by Irina Pino
HAVANA TIMES – At the Hotel Habana Libre, I used to meet with my friend and colleague Verónica Vega. It was a much-anticipated rendezvous, part of a friendship that began in 2011 and continues to this day. Sitting on a sofa in the lobby, we shared our joys and reflections. We tried to fix the world, clinging to the hope that change would come and we might experience it—that it would no longer remain something only tangible in dreams.
We’ve spent hours in this place, though without consuming any refreshments, since prices are quite high. Conversation is the only thing that sustains us. Sometimes it’s even been difficult to find a bathroom, as they’re often locked to keep out people who aren’t staying at the hotel.
I looked up information about this hotel, such a city landmark, and found conflicting details—such as the number of rooms and its height. Some articles say it has 25 floors, others 27; some say it has 572 rooms or more. What is certain is that from its height, one can enjoy beautiful views of the sea, and the city takes on a new perspective, one less submissive. Along with the Focsa building, it used to be one of the tallest structures—until recently, when it was surpassed by the K-23 Tower, with 44 floors and over 500 rooms. A building that has broken the urban harmony.
There are plenty of journalistic pieces about this hotel’s history; you can find them online. Fidel Castro set up his office here for several months in the 1960s. There were also two attempts on his life. It was originally called the Habana Hilton, later renamed Habana Libre.
I remember the era when Cubans couldn’t stay in hotels and weren’t even allowed to enter. Except during the time when President Jimmy Carter’s administration built a bridge of friendship between Cuba and the United States, allowing the Cuban community to travel to the island and reunite with family after decades of separation. Then, Cubans had free access to enjoy the shops and restaurants—always hosted by someone else’s dollars.
I know it from the inside; I was once in a room with a boyfriend who wasn’t Cuban, and I loved the comfort of the furniture. I also once went dancing at the Turquino Cabaret one night.
Habana Libre is a five-star hotel because of its services. However, there are deteriorated areas, such as the shopping arcade hallway, with leaks and ceiling damage. It’s also clear that the merchandise is outdated, and many items are missing, like children’s toys and cosmetics.
The first floor, where exhibitions are usually held, remains closed, and visitors aren’t allowed upstairs.
It’s a shame that it has lost its former glamour and now looks like a jewel without shine. Even the front mural, a painting by artist Amelia Pelaez, looks faded.
Hi Irina,
Your photographic work is very important as it documents a prolonged period of great difficulty for all Cubans and especially those struggling day to day on the island. I was born in El Vedado and in 1969 my parents made the decision, not easily, to leave Cuba for the US. As a younster, I remember the Habana Libre, Radio Centro, the ice cream shop Copelia, Parque Marti and others. Personally, am hopeful that a new opportunity is on the short horizon and Cubans, All, will work together to rebuild our beautiful nation.
We as Americans should be helping our neighbor. People are starving and suffering from hunger because of this Cuban regime. No medicines no food no nothing…. but I bet the Cuban high society is doing ok!!!!! Also water and electricity is not good enough!!! I am not Cuban and see what is happening The elete should get out and stop !!!
Give thanks to ravages of a failed totalitarian oppressive tyrant Marxist regime that destroyed a once thriving Island Nation with unlimited potential
Thank you Fidel
The day they removed the name Hilton and replaces it with Libre I was passing by with my father on our way to the US Embassy to turn in my census report. I was 14 years old. I am now 79 years old. I left Cuba in 1961 and have never returned.
I always remember me trying to enter to the lobby and blocked by security guard because I was Cuban . I also remember telling to that guy my suggestion of a different name to the hotel because it was very far from being Libre (free) for Cubans
I was there one evening 6 years ago dancing at the Turquino Cabaret, I didn’t know it’s history, interesting.
That mural is ugly. Looks like something Picasso or a child would paint. Defaces the spectacular architecture.
Change is good, and sometimes it is bad. I can see some of the changes that might be best for Cuba.
I love spending time here, as many do not understand the mental peace that some people experience when they come to the island.
I live in a city where you always need your head on 360 as you are looking for anything and everything.
I do not feel that way when I am on the Island. There are some things that I do not like that have come with the changes that I have seen, as I do not want to see Cuba going back to the old days when it was an American playpen.
Had a few coffees in there
My partner and I went to cuba last year we had travelled from scotland UK. We were so excited to see Havana and surrounding areas,we knew before going that it was a poor country but poor does not describe how bad thing are.
My first visit to the Havana Libre was in 2008 when I went to enjoy the hotel pool. In those days, the cost was 10cuc (10 us dollars). Included in the entry price was the ability to consume up to 10 cuc in value from the restaurant and bar. In those days this was equal to 3 mixed drinks or an order of hamburger and French fries and two mixed drinks. Either way, it was a good deal for 10 bucks. At poolside was always a small group of foreigners and a handful of well-heeled Cubans. I went there many, many times and it was never what I would call crowded. During my last visit to Cuba last year, the Havana Libre pool was closed and the 90% drained pool was green with algae and small swamp plants. I agree with Irina, the lobby looked dated and sad. The shopping area on the south side of the hotel’s first floor looked abandoned. Because of the rain that particular day, the roof of the shopping area was leaking badly in many places and the floor was covered in wet cardboard. Do you think that the leadership of Cuba today, all of whom are old enough to remember when the Havana Libre was at the top of it’s game now ever even visit the hotel. And if they do, do they think that the good times of the past will ever return?
Thank you for that article. My wife and I stayed there one night in 2015. It was like going back in time ,what a luxurious hotel looked like from the 50s. We live in Canada so it was a pleasant change. It breaks my heart to see and hear the suffering the Cuban people are experiencing . We have many close friends across Cuba but sadly I have not been back for a couple of years. Even for Canadians it is a struggle to obtain the necessities. I hope very soon things will improve. I love your country and the beautiful, kind generous and resourceful people.