Havana’s Hotel Habana Libre

Photo Feature by Irina Pino
HAVANA TIMES – At the Hotel Habana Libre, I used to meet with my friend and colleague Verónica Vega. It was a much-anticipated rendezvous, part of a friendship that began in 2011 and continues to this day. Sitting on a sofa in the lobby, we shared our joys and reflections. We tried to fix the world, clinging to the hope that change would come and we might experience it—that it would no longer remain something only tangible in dreams.
We’ve spent hours in this place, though without consuming any refreshments, since prices are quite high. Conversation is the only thing that sustains us. Sometimes it’s even been difficult to find a bathroom, as they’re often locked to keep out people who aren’t staying at the hotel.
I looked up information about this hotel, such a city landmark, and found conflicting details—such as the number of rooms and its height. Some articles say it has 25 floors, others 27; some say it has 572 rooms or more. What is certain is that from its height, one can enjoy beautiful views of the sea, and the city takes on a new perspective, one less submissive. Along with the Focsa building, it used to be one of the tallest structures—until recently, when it was surpassed by the K-23 Tower, with 44 floors and over 500 rooms. A building that has broken the urban harmony.
There are plenty of journalistic pieces about this hotel’s history; you can find them online. Fidel Castro set up his office here for several months in the 1960s. There were also two attempts on his life. It was originally called the Habana Hilton, later renamed Habana Libre.
I remember the era when Cubans couldn’t stay in hotels and weren’t even allowed to enter. Except during the time when President Jimmy Carter’s administration built a bridge of friendship between Cuba and the United States, allowing the Cuban community to travel to the island and reunite with family after decades of separation. Then, Cubans had free access to enjoy the shops and restaurants—always hosted by someone else’s dollars.
I know it from the inside; I was once in a room with a boyfriend who wasn’t Cuban, and I loved the comfort of the furniture. I also once went dancing at the Turquino Cabaret one night.
Habana Libre is a five-star hotel because of its services. However, there are deteriorated areas, such as the shopping arcade hallway, with leaks and ceiling damage. It’s also clear that the merchandise is outdated, and many items are missing, like children’s toys and cosmetics.
The first floor, where exhibitions are usually held, remains closed, and visitors aren’t allowed upstairs.
It’s a shame that it has lost its former glamour and now looks like a jewel without shine. Even the front mural, a painting by artist Amelia Pelaez, looks faded.