A Canadian’s Experience in the Mountains of Granma, Cuba
By Peggy Shand
HAVANA TIMES – I’ve been going to Cuba for many years, sometimes twice a year right up until Covid. Always to Marea Del Portilla in Pilon, Granma and made many good friends in the village. I was there during 9/11, and I was there the very sad day that Fidel passed away in 2016.
The planes have stopped flying to Manzanillo so at my age and health traveling from Holguin to Pilon is very difficult. I’m 76 years, my mind can’t seem to grasp that, but my body does. I look in the mirror and wonder where have the years gone.
I wanted one last trip to Cuba, in case I don’t go again. I wanted it to be a good memory. I was insisting on doing this trip on my own. My family was a little worried about me going alone because of no electricity and no running water on the mountain.
I did not know Anley Rosales Benitez from Bayamo Travel and Tour Agency. But I saw many great reviews on him. I messaged him to see if he knew anyone in the mountains I could stay with for a week and I wanted a week to rest and relax but I wanted it to be a Cuban holiday not a tourist holiday.
He said I could stay at his home at Bartolome Maso in the Province of Granma. He arranged to pick me up at the airport and took me to his home up on the mountain and returned me to the airport a week later. He would be busy with tours, but I would see him a few times during my holiday.
We stopped on the way up the mountain and watched people making Casabe and took some with us, we stopped for fresh bread and fruit. He had bottled water and cola for me already at his home.
On Mother’s Day he arranged a pig roast down by the river and many people on the mountain came, it was wonderful and with a swim in the river.
Everyone there respects him and he goes out of his way to help them all. He is a ‘true’ friend to many.
Every meal was with a ‘View of the Mountains’ and the most beautiful sunsets you have ever seen. From my bedroom window or laying in my hammock I could watch the goats come down the mountains. I went horse back riding and even milked a cow. Every day, fresh fruit, fresh eggs for breakfast.
One of the workers there took me to pick fresh pineapple and ginger. He would put a hammock up for me every morning and put it away in the evening. He has a smile that lights right up and touches your heart. It was very hard to say goodbye to him.
The coffee was ground every day. I was even drinking fresh ground ginger tea. Mimi, the lady of the house, and her daughter Chuchi took care of me. I could not have asked for a better holiday anywhere.
My second day there a Doctor who lives nearby came by. He came just for a visit but wanted to check my medication. As I don’t speak Spanish and where I was staying they do not speak English. He would know what I was on just in case. But I couldn’t have been any better. It just shows you how much they cared. Although Anley speaks English and French and Spanish. He was staying at his friend’s while I was at his house.
But when in Cuba, there is a universal language – love. It was the best holiday in Cuba I have ever had in 25 years.
When I came home, I had a Dr’s appointment. My blood sugar and my blood pressure were perfect the Dr said he could tell it was a good trip for me. He said it showed in my eyes.
I am going to miss them all very much, and I hope and pray I can go back up there another time. I love each one of them. One day, I just may surprise them with a knock on their door. They said I would be welcome back anytime. Anley gave me the best compliment ever. He said I am now a part of the mountain history.
Memories are treasures of the heart.
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*Havana Times readers we welcome you to send in your travel experiences to share.
I have been to Cuba many times and Loved every time we went. I enjoyed Varadero, I fell in love with Havana and Santiago de Cuba is a second home to us. It just alludes me how any Cuban can be happy living in the US after everything the US has done to your country. I am Canadian and very proud of it but like I said my second home is in Cuba and always will be. I will never go to the US and I watch what I purchase and make sure it is not from there. I have been at a resort in Cuba when the US Cuban’s come and they are not the Cuban people that I love and know. The US has made them to act entitled and that is not a good look. Thank you to all the Cuban people that welcome us with open arms. I for one will always love you.
Anley has me and friends on several bike trips in the area. He is the best.
Last time I was in cuba I had diarrhea for three weeks. It felt like a cactus was exiting my culo.
I agree with Luis Losada. My parents left the island with just their memories, because of Fidel Castro and his lies. I was 2 years old and never returned to the island, and I am an American and proud to live in the United States . However, my parents still cherish those memories of growing up in Cuba, eventhough they love this country. It sad to read some can glorify Fidel Castro coming from a country like Canada that first of all has freedom of expression . How sad to read this story and others to justify his experience without knowing the true facts.
My family left Cuba for the USA in 1962 during the Missile Crisis. We left behind our home, our business, our working farm, bank accounts.
Only left basically with the clothes on our backs. Cuba was a modern, industrial country with all the advances of the USA.
Now only people who live in the country side and grow their food have enough to eat. In the cities there’s very little food to be had unless you have a family member that lives in the USA and sends you $ can you afford the food that you buy with dollars. Electricity is terrible, water comes and goes and internet is available in just a few areas.
Yes, tell me now how Cuba is great after Castro! By the way I am a Democrat that leans left.
It is hypocritical and even perverted to willingly plunge yourself in a country that is economically struggling and progressively backwards, and then fly back to modernity and tap yourself on your shoulder for your capacity to endure deprivation
I agree with Rafael…sort of. I remember when Fidel died. Most Cubans celebrated…secretly. Older Cubans still don’t even say his name out loud in public. They simply make a gesture that resembles stroking their chin or imaginary beard for fear of government scrutiny. He was a cruel dictator and his dictatorship exists to this day. For the writer to romanticize Fidel in the way she did is due to her ability to freely fly in and out of Cuba twice a year. But to Cubans forced to live under the Castro regime’s oppression? A whole different story.
To Rafael De Jesus Valencia.
After reading this beautiful story you try to spoil it. I do not know if you aware that Cuba would be like Haiti or Dominikan Republic but for sure not like Aruba if Fidel ” dictator” was not existed. Read history and ask parents of parents to tell you how they lived. And remember you wouldn’t be able to read this without education provided by your “dictator”….
What a lovely story! I’m glad you had such a wonderful trip, Peggy!
Fond memories of my stop at the hotel pool there, and the all-you-can-eat breakfast at Marea del Portillo a few days later. Did this on a rented scooter from Holguin to Pilon to Stgo and then back via Mella.
I have been to Cuba twice with my boyfriend from Ciego de Avila and have visited Cayo Coco. The best thing about Cuba are the people. They treated me like familia. We must all pray for the Cuban people every day
For as much as people talk trash about living conditions in certain Latin American countries, the goods outnumber the few bad ones!
I am a Dominican living in the USA for 52 years and it’s home. However, I have never been at ease with the lack of warmness and welcoming here that you will get in any part of the world, specially in Latin America!
I have no doubts in my mind that even in such difficult times, visiting Cuba will be a wonderful experience!!
Sad day that the dictator Fidel died? Let me tell you Fidel ruin my country and as far I can tell you 90% of the Cubans celebrated that day
I biked from Guantanamo to Havana, and on the second trip from Havana to Pinar Del Rio. I also saw the Isle of Youth. Alas, Cuba could be a paradise. The people are amazing chuck galvin