Author: Jorge Milanes

I was waiting at the busy intersection of Prado and Neptuno streets for a cab headed for Vedado, in the direction of the theatre. An old American car that was practically falling apart came to a stop beside me. “I’m going down Linea Street,” the driver said to me. I got in.

These days, it seems as though Cuban janitors can conceive of no better time to get to their duties than when you come into work or, worse, during the busiest working hours.Today was one of those days when my arrival at a certain government office coincided with the janitor’s unavoidable maintenance duties.

“Kids, do any of you know what Cuba’s National Dance Music is?” asks Chispita the Clown while he clowns around. “Raeggeton!” the children reply in unison, convinced this is the right answer, making us burst out laughing. “Mom’s always playing it and I like it a lot!” one of the kids says, smiling.

In her native English, she told me that, in Cuba, she had not yet seen a single big, yellow “M”. “No, we haven’t got any of those,” I replied, without really understanding what she had meant. My pride and my uncertainty were at a stand-off. I had to find out about that “yellow M” somehow, without appearing to be ignorant.

Finding a skillful tailor or seamstress in Havana is no easy task. In fact, the last time it took me nearly a year of asking around to be able to order a pair of dress pants, pants I had intended to wear on my birthday for the first time.

My mother has long suffered from high blood pressure, diabetes and glaucoma. Three years ago, she underwent surgery for a neoplasia of the colon. Thus, the physician had assigned her an official diet consisting of chicken, viands and milk, a dietary allotment which must be renewed every year as of the date the diet is prescribed.

Mateo repairs old “Aurika” model Russian washing machines. Impelled by the need to better his economic situation, he has earned his living this way since he first arrived in Havana. At first he worked clandestinely, but when the new economic policies went into effect, he obtained his self-employment license.

I was trying to purchase three servings of fried chicken to go, but I didn’t want any sides because I already had some at home. This proved more difficult than I would have thought.

“You’re a fool if you don’t buy a cellphone. How are we supposed to reach you in the case of an emergency or some need?” My brother and Osmel have cellphones. When they get together at home all they do is try to tempt and entice me.

They come here from Africa to study medicine. You can see them walking through the streets of Havana, though they pass by almost unnoticed since there’s not much difference between them and us. When they speak is when you realize their origin.